Designing the hairline.

An SMP hairline is designed from the face it will sit on: your age, your facial structure, the size and shape of your head, how you live and how you dress. It is not chosen from a chart of shapes, and it is not simply the line you had at twenty put back. It is drawn on your head at consultation, adjusted until it belongs to you, and agreed before a single impression goes in. We look at the whole head as we draw, including the temples and corners.

Where it starts: the face

From $2,500. Three sessions and a perfection session, all included. See what it costs in Miami →

Every face has proportions, and the hairline is one of the three horizontal lines that set them, with the brow and the base of the nose. Move the top line and the whole face rebalances. Too low and the forehead shortens, the eyes crowd upward and the face looks heavier. Too high and the forehead lengthens and the loss you came in to solve is still on show. The right height puts the forehead back in proportion with the rest of the face, and it is different on every head.

Head shape does the same work from the side. A long head takes a different curve from a round one, a wide skull from a narrow one, and the line has to look right from above and in profile, because that is how other people see you, across a table or walking in front of you on the street.

Age, and the decade ahead

The hairline is drawn for the man you are and the man you will be. Hairlines mature: they lift a little at the corners and soften as a man moves through his thirties and forties, and the face changes with them. A line drawn at thirty-eight needs to suit the same face at forty-eight. A man in his fifties came in last year with a photograph taken when he was twenty-two and asked for that line, and once it was pencilled on he saw the problem before we said a word.

So the design looks ahead. It sits where a hairline of your age would naturally sit, with the corners where a mature line carries them, and it is built so that it still looks like yours ten years on. It can be adjusted at a refresh as the face changes, and how long SMP lasts covers when that comes up; a line designed properly seldom needs it.

Soft or defined

There are two finishes, and the choice follows from style.

A soft hairline is broken at the edge, the impressions thinning out over a short distance into bare skin, the way an actual line does, with no hard boundary. It suits most men and most faces, because it is what a hairline looks like up close. It is the finish for a man who wants nobody to notice anything at all.

A defined hairline is sharper at the edge, with the impressions carried closer to a clean line. It suits a man who wears a sharp, lined-up cut, because his barber is already drawing that edge with clippers, and a soft line under that cut looks unfinished. Even a defined edge is built from follicle-sized impressions with a hint of softness in it; a solid stripe is not a hairline.

Which one you get is decided with you, from how you cut your hair and how you carry yourself.

The temples and the corners

We spend time on the temples and corners because they make the hairline believable.

The corners are where a mature hairline recedes first, so their shape needs to reflect that. Filled square, they look like a wig; left as deep points, they look like loss that was never addressed. The design finds the corner that fits your age and your face, a soft angle, receded to where a line of your years would sit, that looks like a hairline rather than a restoration.

The temples are where the line turns and runs down to meet the hair at the sides, and where it has to join natural growth without a seam. The impressions are graded in size, spacing and darkness into the hair around them, so there is no edge for a barber’s clippers to find. On a man with strong temple points, the points are kept; on a man whose temples have thinned into a gentle curve, the curve is honoured rather than squared off.

Why “lower and sharper” is the classic mistake

Almost every man who sits down for the drawing asks for the line a little lower and a little sharper than the one drawn for him. It is understandable, because he has been watching the line recede for years and wants the ground back.

We draw both options so he can compare them in the mirror. A lower line shortens the forehead and puts the face out of proportion, and a sharper line on a mature face announces itself, because nobody his age has a line like that. Both draw attention to the line rather than looking like his own hair. The hairline that looks natural sits slightly higher and slightly softer than the one he asked for. Drawn side by side and seen from across the room, the higher, softer line is the one that looks like his.

The consultation is where it is drawn

The hairline is drawn at consultation, on your head, with a pencil, and moved until it is right from the front, each side and above. Photographs are taken so the same line is there at session one. Nothing is placed that you have not seen and agreed.

From there it is built across three sessions and a perfection session, with the first three spaced two to three weeks apart and the perfection session after 30 to 60 days of healing. The first lays the line lighter than the target, the second settles it over healed work, and the third refines the edge, the temples and the corners; the method page shows each pass. Consulting online first, the line is planned from photographs and confirmed on your head before the first session begins. The portfolio shows healed hairlines, front and profile, on the faces they were designed for.

The other two tells, color and density, are in does SMP look natural. Yours gets drawn at a free consultation, online or at the Miami or New York studio, and if you’d like to book one, ask for a quote and we will take it from there.

How is an SMP hairline designed?

From the face it will sit on: your age, your facial structure, the size and shape of your head, how you live and how you dress. It is drawn on your head at consultation with a pencil, adjusted from the front, each side and above until it belongs to you, and agreed before a single impression goes in.

Should an SMP hairline be soft or defined?

It follows from how you cut your hair. A soft hairline is broken at the edge, thinning into bare skin the way an actual line does, and suits most men. A defined hairline is sharper at the edge and suits a man who wears a lined-up cut, though even a defined edge is built from follicle-sized impressions with a hint of softness.

How low should an SMP hairline be?

Slightly higher than most men ask for. A line placed too low shortens the forehead, crowds the eyes upward and makes the face look heavier; too high, and the loss is still on show. The right height puts the forehead back in proportion with the brow and the base of the nose, and it is different on every head.