The Journal, For Clients

Medication, SMP, or both.

By Steven “Stevey G” Greitzer · October 13, 2026

Minoxidil, finasteride and scalp micropigmentation are not competing choices, because they do unrelated things. The two medications aim to keep or regrow hair, and whether either is appropriate for you is a question for a doctor. SMP grows no hair at all: it places pigment in the skin so the scalp looks like a close crop or like denser hair. Plenty of men use both.

What the two medications are

Minoxidil is a liquid applied to the scalp, used to stimulate hair growth and slow balding. MedlinePlus, the patient reference published by the US National Library of Medicine, notes that it does not cure baldness, that most new hair is lost within a few months of stopping, and that it has no effect on receding hairlines (MedlinePlus). Finasteride is a tablet in a class of medications called 5-alpha reductase inhibitors, used for male pattern hair loss, and MedlinePlus states that it slows hair loss only while it is being taken (MedlinePlus).

That is as far as we go, deliberately. Whether either suits you, what it involves and what it might do are questions for a doctor or a dermatologist who can look at your history. Anyone in a studio chair offering an opinion on a drug is outside their lane.

What SMP is, in the same terms

SMP is cosmetic tattooing of the scalp. Pigment impressions, each the size of a real follicle, are placed in the skin so that a shaved head looks like a head clipped that morning, or so that less scalp shows through longer hair. It does not reach a follicle, change a hormone or alter a growth cycle, and it makes no difference whatsoever to whether your hair stays. What SMP is sets out the mechanics.

Because the loss carries on regardless, the design has to account for it: a hairline drawn for your face and your age rather than the one you had at twenty two, and a density built to sit alongside both the hair you have now and the hair you may not have in five years.

Medication and SMP side by side

OptionWhat it doesEffort and costHow permanentWho it suitsWhat it cannot do
Minoxidil (topical)Applied to the scalp to stimulate growth and slow baldingA daily routine, indefinitely, at an ongoing costDepends on continued use; most new hair is lost within months of stoppingDecided by a doctor, on your history and pattern of lossCure baldness, or affect a receding hairline
Finasteride (oral)A tablet for male pattern hair loss, in a class called 5-alpha reductase inhibitorsA tablet daily, indefinitely, at an ongoing costSlows loss only while it is being takenDecided by a prescriber, and only for menChange how the scalp looks where hair has gone
SMPFollicle-sized pigment in the skin, so the scalp passes for a close cropThree sessions minimum, ten to fourteen days apart, from $2,500 all includedHolds for years, softens slowly, a refresh restores itMen who wear it short or shaved, or want less scalp showingGrow a single hair, slow loss, or treat anything

Why they are not alternatives

A man weighing medication is asking whether he can hold onto his hair. A man weighing SMP has usually answered that question already, in one direction or another, and is now asking what his head should look like. Those are different questions arriving at different points. Medication works on biology; SMP works on appearance.

It also explains why the timelines do not line up. Medication is a wait measured in months before anything is visible, and the answer it gives is provisional. SMP is three appointments across about six weeks, and when the third has healed you see exactly what you bought.

Using both

A lot of our clients are on one of the medications when they sit down, and nothing about SMP asks them to change that. The pigment goes into the skin between follicles, so it does not stop a topical being applied once the area has healed, and an oral medication has no relationship to it at all.

What we do ask is that you leave the scalp alone through the healing window after each session, no products on it, which is ordinary aftercare and covered in full in SMP aftercare. Beyond that window, your routine is between you and whoever recommended it. A client last spring arrived with a note from his dermatologist open on his phone and one question he had been carrying around for weeks, which was whether booking this meant stopping that. It did not.

The combination is common because it covers both halves. Medication is aimed at keeping what is there, and the pigment deals with the scalp that already shows. Men with thinning rather than full loss often find that the sensible arrangement: a routine aimed at the hair, and a treated field underneath so the skin stops showing through in strong overhead light.

What changes if you stop

This is the part worth planning for. Because hair held by these medications is generally lost once they are stopped, a man who comes off one can expect his scalp to become more visible over the following months, and the treated field then carries more of the picture than it did before.

That is manageable, and it is one reason the work is built in layers across a minimum of three sessions, including the final refinement, spaced ten to fourteen days apart: density added gradually can be adjusted later without starting again, and a refresh session years in can deepen a field doing more work than it used to. If you are thinking of stopping a medication, or starting one, say so at your consultation, so the design is built for the head you are likely to have rather than the one in the mirror today.

Where a doctor comes in

Before any of this, talk to a doctor about the medication question. A dermatologist can tell you what pattern you have, whether it is settled, and what the medical options are for you, with no commercial interest in which direction you go. We would rather you had that conversation, because a man who understands his own loss asks better questions in a consultation.

On the cosmetic side we can be exact: what your hairline looks like drawn on your own head, how your colour is matched so it heals as the colour of your own hair rather than drifting grey or blue, how many sessions it takes and what it costs in writing. If surgery is in the picture too, SMP compared with a hair transplant covers that pairing. Consultations in Miami and New York are free, online or in the studio, and you can ask for a quote whenever you want the numbers.

Is SMP better than minoxidil or finasteride?

The comparison does not hold, because they belong to different categories. Minoxidil and finasteride are medications intended to keep or regrow hair, and whether either is appropriate for you is a decision for a doctor. Scalp micropigmentation grows no hair whatsoever: it places pigment in the skin so the scalp looks like a close crop or like denser hair. Many men do one of each.

Can you use minoxidil after scalp micropigmentation?

Men on a topical routinely go back to it once each treated area has fully healed, and the pigment sits in the skin between follicles rather than on top of it. We do ask you to leave the scalp alone during the healing window after every session, which is ordinary aftercare. Anything beyond that is a question for whoever prescribes or recommends your treatment, not for us.

Does SMP stop hair loss?

No. SMP is cosmetic and changes nothing about how your hair grows. Loss continues on whatever course it was already taking, which is why the design accounts for it: a hairline drawn for your face and age, and density built to sit alongside the hair you have now and the hair you may not have in five years. Medication is the only route that targets the growth itself.

Should I try medication before getting SMP?

That is worth raising with a doctor, and it is a reasonable sequence for some men, particularly where loss is recent and the pattern has not settled. Medication takes months before any effect is visible, so starting it does not stop you from booking a consultation to understand what SMP would involve and what it would cost. Nothing about the consultation commits you.

What happens to my SMP if I stop taking medication?

The pigment is unaffected, because it is in the skin rather than in the hair. According to MedlinePlus, hair maintained by these medications is generally lost after they are stopped, so a scalp can become more visible over time, and the treated field is then doing more of the work than it was. A refresh session adjusts density if the picture changes.

Do you give advice on hair loss medication?

No, and nobody at a studio should. We are artists working on skin, not clinicians, so questions about whether a drug suits you, what it involves or what it might do belong with a doctor or a dermatologist. What we can tell you precisely is what SMP will look like on your head, how many sessions it takes and what it costs.

Sources

Written by Steven “Stevey G” Greitzer, scalp micropigmentation artist and educator, practicing since 2013. About the author

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